'Purist' refused oxygen for fatal Everest climb

A mountain climber offers a unique perspective as to what goes on high atop the world's highest mountain peak and the choices climbers make in the wake of the death of a Calgary climber.

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CTV.ca News Staff

Date: Wed. Jun. 3 2009 9:34 AM ET

A Calgary mountain climber who chose to summit Mount Everest without oxygen had the "athletic prowess" to attempt such a feat, according to a friend and fellow climber, who says he too would have gone without oxygen if he was just as fit.

Frank Ziebarth, 29, died on May 21 just below the summit of the world's tallest mountain as he was descending back to base camp.

Ziebarth chose not to use bottled oxygen for the 8,848 metre climb, which can ward off altitude sickness and its potentially fatal side effects.

"For me, if I had the strength and the athletic prowess to climb Everest without oxygen, I think I might have tried it," Manuel Pizarro told Canada AM on Wednesday. "I just don't have that kind of fitness level. Frank did."

Pizarro, who was part of the same climbing team as Ziebarth, reached the mountain's peak at 7:30 a.m. He crossed paths with Ziebarth on his way back down the mountain at around 9:00 a.m. about a kilometre from the summit's peak.

By then, Ziebarth was suffering from hypothermia and a lack of oxygen. He later died at the bottom of the mountain's third step.

Ziebarth, a German national who lived in Calgary, had previously climbed Shishapangma, Cho Oyu and Lohtse without oxygen, according to a statement posted at EverestNews.com.

Pizarro said that while climbing mountains without oxygen is "risky," many top athletes do it.

According to Pizarro, Ziebarth's fitness level would allow him to take about half the time to climb a distance than it takes other experienced climbers.

But going without oxygen is a goal of many passionate climbers so that they can make it as pure an experience as possible, Pizarro said.

"Frank was a purist at heart," Pizarro said. "He was adamant that it was him and the mountain."

What added to the risk, Pizarro said, was that there were fewer climbers on this trip than he'd seen on his previous Everest climb in 2007, meaning there were fewer resources available in case of an emergency.

More than 200 people have died on the mountain since it was first conquered by Sir Edmund Hilary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953.

Comments are now closed for this story

kc in alberta
said

I'm all for doing whatever floats your boat recreationally but I'll admit, I don't understand these attempts to thwart our basic natural physiology.

Humans need oxygen and die without it - this is a fact that clearly can't logically be denied.

This man was an accomplished climber but in spite of that once again proved "you can't fool mother nature".

I hope he really did enjoy his short life more by taking extreme risks and that he wasn't just looking for extra glory by being more extreme than the other extreme climbers.

MRC in Ontario
said

"Purist", eh? How about all that modern technology that is your climbing gear & clothing?
Such stupidity.

re: Everest death rate
said

Everest death rate is 1 death per 10 attempts, NOT 1 in 100.

source: bbc news (one of several sites referencing this death rate)

Mr. D. Franchuk
said

Not really news is it? A man died. He pushed his personal limit, and found it. I'm sure his family and friends were hoping for a different conclusion, and I feel for them. Yet, how many of have the option of passing away doing what we love? Not many.
My instructions to my family are simple: "Leave me on the mountain"

Charlie in Fredericton
said

If people want to risk their own lives with very risky activities/stunts, fine. I do feel sad for the loved ones they leave behind when things go bad.

But, it really pisses me off when risk-takers put the lives of others in danger because of a need for rescue. I don't think that's right at all.

I'm glad no innocent folk died in this case.

Sherry Katrina
said

A well known comedian said once when a person stated he was going to ride out a tornado because he was very fit and would be able to hold on - "it's not HOW the wind blows, it's WHAT the wind blows - it doesn't matter how many sit ups you did that morning, if you get hit by a Volvo.......". Too many people think they are immortal - Surprise!

B Steven
said

The reality of human endeavours against nature is often compromised when there is an ego/pride issue. A friend of mine died of cancer last year in her 40s. Later I found out that she chose not to be treated by modern medicine but by herbs, diet, and the power of positive thinking. There will always be a Ziebarth somewhere. There will always be snowmobilers daring the out of bounds avalanche areas. Sad. I read about such things and then move on to concentrate on my golf swing. Its very easy to prevent all these mishaps.

Julie - Saskatoon
said

Apparently, CTV shouldn't allow comments on this story because the vast majority of posters are insensitive to the story. It was HIS life to do with what he pleased. I'm sure he talked to his loved ones before the trek, telling them of the risk he faced. They would realize it was something he wanted to do, I'm sure they're sad but at least they have closure knowing that he died doing something meaningful to him.

As per the comments about being stupid, or "retardation" as one poster put it, to climb without bottled oxygen...how exactly did they climb mountains prior to bottled oxygen?

There are dangers in everything in life. We can't safeguard ourselves from everything, else we'd all be living in padded bubbles.

I hope this man may rest in peace, and I hope his family does not pay heed to these comments in their time of grieving.

A Climber
said

Why? If I can quote a most famous quote: "Because it's there."

Every climber that goes on any mountain knows the risks involved. Everest is just a big lure for people that wnat to reach the top of the world. There have been many climbers that have summitted Everest without oxygen, and multiple times. They don't take this risk lightly, they know what's involved.

Everest is just too commercialized. Inexperienced reporters, journalists, and unfit people all try Everest because it's there. And there are countless guiding companies that will guide you up the mountain, no matter who you are.

If you want to report a death on a mountain, how about you try the Eiger, or K2, or Vinson Massif. The only reason why there isn't as high of a deathtoll on these is that they aren't as big or as challenged as Everest.

dk
said

Reinhardt Mezner climbed all the big 7 without supplemental oxygen. From what I've read he has lost a great deal of his mental capacity because of it.

An auto body person could choose to paint vehicles without a respirator and accomplish the same thing. Would you consider him a hero for being a purist and painting without a mask or just plain stupid?

Stupid Is As Stupid Does
said

And this is a "sport"?

that leaves injured people to die on the mountain because they're inconvenient...

that causes people to spend huge amounts of money paid to "experts" to get a chance at climbing the mountain...

take stupid risks that go far beyond what is reasonable....

Time to bring in some common sense regulations. I can't pictury Hillory behaving like the present crop of idiots.

Shaking my head in Calgary
said

So many people here that don't understand climbing expeditions.

Climbing without oxygen isn't new. It's been done many times succefully. In fact climbers that can do so, are an asset when other climbers are stranded. This was the case in an Everest disaster in 1996. Read The Climb or Into Thin Air to get an idea of what can happen.

Adrian
said

Idiot!

There's nothing like making yourself a casualty and putting others at risk too.

It's right up there on the intelligence scale with a self inflicted gunshot wound.

The Everest "Death Zone" is a fickle place.

Shannon
said

For all of you who are asking "was it worth it?" Well, at least this man died doing what he loved most... I wonder how many of us would have the guts to do that, let alone climb Mt. Everest without oxygen. So, yes he died but he will always be remembered and the rest of us.. well, we will be sitting at our computers trying to be smart.

Gerald from Belleville
said

You play, you pay.

I can understand the urge to surmount tremendous obstacles in a "pure" way. I have taken many very calculated risks in my life in pursuit of that "rush", but fact was that a)I was aware of the risk, and b)I had no dependents at the time.

My only issue with this type of risk taking isn't for the guy himself: it's for those who have to deal with his choices. If you want to risk your own life that's fine by me, but taking that extra risk jeopardizes those coming with you, and that just isn't right.

Gabe
said

Steve the Pundit says:

"Congratulations on "keeping it real", Mr. Athlete. And for bringing sorrow to your friends and family because of your selfishly-motivated bravado."

His friends and family probably understand and appreciate the choice he made.

Sheri
said

I feel sorry for the family and friends he left behind - I simply can not wrap my head around how selfish someone has to be do this sort of thing - people who looked up to them have to give their head a shake - anyone who follows in his footsteps will be a fool to do so...

Ed in Alberta
said

<<"Frank was a purist at heart," Pizarro said. "He was adamant that it was him and the mountain.">>

This time the mountain won.

BV
said

Marc in Trenton

Actually, people have jumped out of planes with no parachute. Travis Pastrana did it in just shorts. He hooked up with another diver with a parachute after his full free fall but still. Pretty risky

Robert in Calgary
said

There is the legitimate challenge and many have faced it, but the mountain, not the man, is in charge. The climbing community has for some years now been releasing books and films that face the issue of WHY climbers face the extremes, and clearly you can separate the rational ambitious from the insanely obsessed IF there is a way to get to that depth of story. The difference shows in how decisions are made. For the insanely obsessed, the tragedy must have been whatever it was in the past that alienated the climber from himself and living with the flow of reality. For the sane, let them sail beyond the sunset strong and free.

Stop judging just because it isn't what you'd do
said

Judge, Judge, Judge.

So many people aree so quick to judge this man. Did he take a risk. Yes. But you don't step on Everest (with or without oxygen) without realizing that you may die. There are many people who have previously summitted Everest without oxygen, so his attempt was not some fringe crazy attempt.

My sympathy goes to his family, but they can hold in their hearts that this man passed away doing something with true meaning to him. Something that many other individuals in the world never achieve.

By the way the stats on deaths on Everest is NOT 1 in 5 its 1 in 100.

Terry in Pickering
said

One question I have on climbing a mountain that high "WHY" I would never in a life time climb something that high I climb Mount St. Anne in Quebec and that was high for me after that I will never climb another mountain again to stressful.

Ian Ottawa
said

Test nature and guess what happens? It is no less tragic than another athlete testing the limits they can endure. He knew the risk and took it anyway. He unfortunately made what he thought acceptable risk and paid the price of his choice. He died doing what he loved and it is the family that is left without him.

CMT Ontario
said

Another death that could have been avoided.

The young people must stop thinking that they are super humans and are immune to all that have taken their elders!!

Such a shame...my sympathies to the family left behind to try and make sense of all of this.

TJC
said

Well I hope this is a lesson for other "Purists" out there. Congradulations on your fine fitness and shape, and all, but this goes to show that safety first should always be practiced.

Greg
said

I feel sorry for him family. He's gone, all because he made a stupid decision

Oh well, maybe this will push people to stop kidding themselves in thinking they can ascend/descend Everest without bottled oxygen

Not a good plan
said

I don't mean to disrespect the dead, but to try this without oxygen just seems dumb to me. One in five who attempt Everest, die along the way - WITH oxygen. I really don't see what fitness has to do with it; your body - especially muscles - REQUIRE oxygen. We're not talking about a quick sprint to the finish line here - from the highest camp to the summit is still several hours of intense climbing, even for experienced climbers. To be without oxygen that long just isn't being smart. The Mallory family, from Utopia, Ontario - who have climbed the highest peaks on six of seven continents, summitted Everest a year ago last week. This isn't something you undertake if you're not in excellent condition to begin with - yet at one point, they thought they'd lost their daughter during her summit, thinking she'd run out of bottled oxygen.

My condolences to his family, but this was ill-thought out to begin with.

John
said

That's right I think I'll be a hero and forgo any oxygen, instead of taking some and returning alive to see my family. I don't care how fit you think you are, why tempt fate, do you really think people are going to think less of you, now what do have, oh ya a permanent resting spot on Everest.

NT
said

Apparently he did not have the fitness level to accomplish the climb without oxygen.

Steve the Pundit
said

This seems akin to motorcyclists who choose to not wear a helmet because it ruins the "purity" of the experience. Anyone who undertakes an adventure as frought with peril as mountain climbing without using all safety equipment at their disposal is either reckless or a fool.

How misguided is someone who thinks that the act of successfully climbing the world's tallest mountain is somehow tainted because they used bottled oxygen?

Congratulations on "keeping it real", Mr. Athlete. And for bringing sorrow to your friends and family because of your selfishly-motivated bravado.

Laureen
said

Whoever loves danger will perish by it. Sirach 3:24

Harry
said

"I just don't have that kind of fitness level. Frank did."

No he didn't.

Lynn
said

May you rest in peace. It must have been such a beautiful view, if you had to die, I can't think of a better place to do it.

Congratulations on making the summit without oxygen, I just wish you had made it down the mountain but I am a firm believe that everything happens for a reason and if it is your time to go, it is your time to go and nothing can stop that, oxygen or no oxygen.

Chip - St. Kitts
said

A very unfortunate story.

There have been many studies that show athletic "prowess" has very little to do with the ability to ward off AMS.

Case in point� I know of a former Olympic competitor who trekked up to the Everest Base Camp. She told me of a person in their trekking party who was obviously out of shape and overweight. This person kept the trekking party very, very slow as they climbed altitude.

Once they reached Base Camp� while all other�s in the trekking party were fighting with symptoms of AMS� this out of shape and overweight person had NO SYMPTOMS. In fact, this person became very useful around the camp.

Again, athletic �prowess� has very little relation to AMS.

Ian in Barrie
said

I guess the question remains "was it all worth dying for"? I think his family would say no. It's sad to see people trying to remain "purist" and yet they put their own lives in mortal danger. Mother nature in it's extreme form rarely hands out second chances and this is just such a case. God rest his soul.

Marc in Trenton
said

I think that climbing Mount Everest has gone from a "Personal Accomplishment" to a "Global competition". How can I be better than the last person who climbed it? How can I do it differently.
I am really amazed on how these people can achieve this feat, personally I would never be able to do it. But lately, just like some other thrill sports, some have just gone beyond the point of retardation. Climbing without oxygen, mountain climbing without ropes. Maybe the next sport should be skydiving without a parachute.

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